As promised, here’s my super easy pattern for knitted bunting!
You don’t need any fancy knitting skills to make this basic bunting! Each triangle is worked from the pointy tip upwards with steady increases every third row after row 5. Once you get the hang of the pattern it’s easy to make the triangles bigger if you want to, or you can cast off as soon as you reach the size you want.
To keep things simple you work the increases by working into the front and back of a stitch. If you’re not sure how to knit into the front and back of a stitch check out this youtube video. It really is very easy!
For advice on blocking and assembling your bunting see the notes at the end.
BAM’s Basic Bunting
Yarn: I’ve knitted this in different yarns from double knit to chunky. Obviously the finer the yarn the smaller the bunting, so if you want to achieve the same overall size you will need to knit more rows to compensate.
Needles: Use a size 1mm larger than the recommended for the yarn to help it hang well.
Finished size: When I used Stylecraft Special Aran and 6mm needles each triangle measured 14cm x 14cm before blocking and 17.cm x 17.5cm after blocking.
k – knit
kfb – knit into the front and back of the stitch
pfb – purl into the front and back of the stitch
Cast on 2 stitches
Row 1: k2 (RS)
Row 2: k2
Row 3: kfb in each stitch (4)
Row 4: k4
Row 5: k1 kfb in next 2 stitches k1 (6)
Row 6: k2 p2 k2
Row 7: k6
Row 8: k2 pfb in next 2 stitches k2 (8)
Row 9: k8
Row 10: k2 p4 k2
Row 11: k2 kfb k2 kfb k2 (10)
Row 12: k2 p6 k2
Row 13: k10
Row 14: k2 pfb p4 pfb k2 (12)
Row 15: k12
Row 16: k2 p8 k2
Row 17: k2 kfb k6 kfb k2 (14)
Row 18: k2 p10 k2
Row 19: k14
Row 20: k2 pfb p8 pfb k2 (16)
Row 21: k16
Row 22: k2 p12 k2
Row 23: k2 kfb k10 kfb k2 (18)
Row 24: k2 p14 k2
Row 25: k18
Row 26: k2 pfb p12 pfb k2 (20)
Row 27: k20
Row 28: k2 p16 k2
Row 29: k2 kfb k14 kfb k2 (22)
Row 30: k2 p18 k2
Row 31: k22
Row 32: k2 kfb k16 kfb k2
Row 33: k24
Row 34: k24
Make 7 triangles.
To join either:
- With a 4.5mm or 5mm crochet hook chain 50, then working from right to left with the right side facing you, *double crochet (single crochet in US terms) into each knitted stitch along the top of your first triangle then chain 10. Repeat from * with each triangle. Chain 50 after final triangle to match the other side. This is my preferred method because you get longer bunting with the same number of triangles, and the crochet chain makes it easy to hang the bunting.
- Substitute the crochet for a ribbon and sew the triangles directly on to it.
- Sew the corners of the triangles tip to tip and add a decorative button hide the joins.
Blocking your triangles makes a big difference to how well the bunting hangs, and it can be done before or after you join them all together. I generally use acrylic yarn for my bunting and I block it by steaming it with my iron. Ironing acrylic yarn directly is a TERRIBLE IDEA but blasting it with steam whilst making sure the iron NEVER touches the yarn itself will work wonders.
Check out this video to see how it works. The demo is with crochet but the same principles apply.
The real joy of this pattern is that it is very simple, making it ideal for customising and personalising any way you like! I love stripes so I usually do at least a couple of striped triangles, but if you are good at doing colour work there’s no reason why you couldn’t knit a design into the bunting.
Novelty yarns are perfect for bunting, either for whole triangles or as a crocheted or blanket stitched edge. Simple embroidery works well, as does the addition of buttons, beads and bells, particularly hanging from the bottom tip of each triangle.
Playing about with scale is fun too. You could make teeny tiny dollhouse bunting with lace weight yarn and very small needles, or go to the opposite extreme with supersized needles and multiple strands of super chunky yarn!